Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Under the Desert Stars with Marshoosh




Day One
This past week we had our class trip to the desert. I gotta say at first I was dreading it because it would cut into the weekend and be 24-hour teaching/sitting duty. But in the end it was a really lovely and relaxing trip.
Loading up the van.

Our trip began with a 3-hour drive to a dirt road then another 30 minute ride in the back of a truck to a lodge in the desert near St. Katherine’s called El Karm run by the Bedouin tribe, the Jabaleya (which means something like of the mountains). The hills and land surrounding the lodge were numerous shades of brown with bright greens from the Palm trees, Paradise apple trees and numerous herbs dotting the landscape. Everything from the rooms to the dining area to the fire pit was lovely.

When we arrived Jameel, the owner, served us tea made of Rabl, which is an herb that is great for the respitory system and is a bright lime green color. It was really tasty too which I am sure was in some part due to the giant spoonful of sugar that was scooped in my cup. After we settled into our rooms and eaten our lunch of salata (traditional salad), gibna and pasta with tuna, Jameel took us on a walk to teach us the uses of many of the herbs in the area.

I was amazed by how almost everything we saw was edible and used to cure some ailment. We eventually came across a poppy (and a poppy field later on) as well as a plant that makes you "drunk for 24 hours." We had to make sure none of the kids tried to get their hands on that one. The place where we meandered was actually a caravan trail years prior and it was kind of funny because there were tubes and cables running through the canyon area transporting electricity from the solar panels and water. I imagined that it is what being on a movie set might look like.

The canyon
Seeds that use the wind to spin into the ground to plant themselves

Eating a sour flower
Karim takes smelling the flowers a little far


That evening a British man named Gordon brought his GPS telescope (not earth but sky GPS) and gave us a lesson in Astronomy. We learned so much: The numbers assigned to a star’s brightness, the different colors stars appear to be and why this is so, different constalations including the zodiac and that the north star is the only star in the sky that never appears to move. We also were able to see the rings of Saturn and the craters in the moon with the telescope.

Day Two
Today was our long trek out further in the desert though really the journey was a “U” shape and we ended up about a 45-minute walking distance from the hostel. All but two people rode camels (jamel in Arabic) for the aprox. 3 hour tour. It is currently mating season and our pack was feeling it. We had a group of male camels who were all sniffing each other out and foaming at the mouth. My guide Mohammed and all of the other guides kept saying that my camel, Marshoosh, is crazy. Though I liked Marshoosh very much, I don’t think he liked me. Every time we stopped he kept flipping his tale so that the urine residue would splash onto my back. It was pretty disgusting. Luckily it was never very wet.

Mohammed, my guide asked about my relationship status and told me that he had a girlfriend. Then he proceeded to ask if I wanted him to sleep with me this evening or if I wanted to go back to his place. He told me that Bedouin women only know the word, “no.” I guess I can’t blame the guy for trying.
Me and Mohammed with Marshoosh
We finally arrived at camp and said goodbye to our camels and guides. Our home for the evening was on the side of a rocky hill with old ruins scattered about. The ruins all had tiny little doors. We were informed that they were built this way to keep intruders at a disadvantage if they wanted to invade a home. Ducking down makes your rather vulnerable. Pretty genius. After exploring for only a few minutes, the kids discovered a human skull and eventually a human vertebrae. We played a few games and then set up camp. Camp consisted of setting out some mats and putting our sleeping bags or blankets on top. No tents for us. We are serious campers. For dinner, we had a traditional Bedouin meal of rice, potatoes, and meat that we shared on four large platters. I was taught how to eat by rolling the rice in my fingers to form a ball and put it in my mouth without my fingers touching my mouth. In this way, we can prevent germs from spreading and it is just polite. I was horrible at this and the kids made fun of me but it was a great experience.
They showed me how to wrap my head like a true Bedouin
Day Three
It was rather impossible to sleep in the last day because almost every kid was up with the sun around 6 am. Our guide was already making bread in the ashes by the time I poked my head out of my sleeping bag and all the kids were gathered around the fire. We all had some tea and had our fill of fool, salata, gibna, aesh (bread) and halawa bars. Once we had eaten and cleaned up camp we walked back to the lodge to rest before the group headed to pray and then drive back home.

3 comments:

  1. Please note: You should always include a minimum of one picture including the Mady girl in your blogposts. Other than that error, another fantastic account of what it's like there in the desert. I really learn a lot reading your posts. I am still hoping for a post on women in this culture, including crucial issues of clothing!

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  2. To Cam: What are you talking about?

    Susan: I promise to add more pictures of Mady and my next post will be on clothing.

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